Note: This is a set of mini essays, I guess, that I wrote to Andreas as emails. Andreas inspired me to begin putting my written material on blogspot because I enjoyed reading his blog (docandreas) so thoroughly. I have kept a journal since 2000 (now some 15 notebooks), but have distributed very little of this for others’ purview. East Canyon is not really correct: I have not been able to determine the name of the canyon that ascends to Big Mountain on the south side thus far. The real East Canyon is on the north side. But the freeway entrance says East Canyon and you have to believe the authorities, right?
written Monday 5/23/2011
No dearth of water here. Another three feet of snow in the high mountains last week. Saturday was beautiful and I rode East Canyon again. There was passage through the snowbank that had stopped me the previous weekend, but another blocked the way 300 yards further on about a half a mile from the pass. It will take some weeks before the snow yields the summit at this pace. There may be more snow accumulation at that elevation tonight, but it will warm starting on Wednesday, according to the forecast. Off to Torrey for Memorial Day weekend and hope to see the desert in bloom.
East Canyon is a lovely ride with no Harleys and Porches roaring up and down the closed road to Big Mountain. In the summer I mostly stick to the mountain bike trail to avoid the whizzing vehicles, but it is too muddy to ride now. The near hillsides are open to full scrutiny without the foliage, which is only beginning to venture out in the lower reaches, and since there is no vehicle traffic, one can wander from side to side on the pavement to get the best views into the uphill hollows with their delicate yellow lilies and down into the swollen streams and broached beaver dams. The vistas across the valley to the southern Oquirrh Mountains and south into the higher Wasatch north faces, dazzling with snow, are superb in the bright sun and clear spring air.
The normally dry canyon is fully saturated. Rivulets are plentiful in the clefts between ridges, draining the melting snow and saturated soils. Creeks that are dry by the end of the summer are raging now. Snow persists along the road and some slopes remain mostly white with only the tree wells having melted due to the solar gain from the wood.
Sunday dawned cloudy and I managed to get in two wind sprint rides up 21st South above Wasatch Blvd. for conditioning before the rain closed in again. It cleared in the afternoon and Susan and I drank wine on the side yard while watching a wiffleball game develop in the triangle park in front of our house. Susan retreated inside to her book and I joined the game as the full time pitcher since they were short of players. It was good fun with kids from 7 through adults on the roster, the team makeup being very fluid as the kids from the various families ran off to their dinner summons and then came back again. My foot keeps me from running very well, so I was not much of a fielding asset to either team, but it helped keep me neutral. The game ended near sunset when another set of thunderstorms moved in.
Written Wednesday 5/25/2011
Monday remained threatening; the real rain held off until evening and then began gentle, but steady. When I was up for an hour at two a.m., it was raining hard the entire time, although our metal-roofed back porch tends to amplify the patter and one has to open the window to get an accurate assessment. Susan claimed the same was occurring when she was up briefly at five. I drove to work in unrelenting rain on Tuesday morning and had no expectation of a bike ride that evening.
But at two it had cleared and by the time I left work, although there were lingering clouds on the mountains, it was looking encouraging. When I finally pushed off for the drive up Parley’s Canyon about 6:30, it was quite clear. It was in the fifties Farenheit, so I dressed warmly, including full pants. Incidentally, both Jon Huntsman, Jr. and Mitt Romney, current presidential wannabes, are related to Parley Pratt, the canyon’s namesake.
No doubt preparing for a Memorial Day weekend road opening this Friday, the pavement had been plowed and cleared of the winter debris shed from the steep, crumbly conglomerate road cuts. I was able to ride to the summit of Big Mountain, a total of about 8 miles, at least half of which is serious uphill. The sun was setting and I was the only one at the top. The mountains were bathed in beautiful salmon light, which later turned to pink alpenglow, as I put on all my warm clothes and headed down.
The remarkable thing was how much wildlife I saw on the way down. Almost immediately I saw two white-tailed deer munching roadside grass, their large ears deployed like satellite dishes probing my intentions. Nothing amazing – I commonly see a few deer on my rides. But they just kept on coming. Across from Affleck Park, there were successive sets of four or five, all feeding next to the road. I slowed down so as to not startle them too much, not wanting them to expend too much energy due to my intrusion. It was clearly dinner time for them and there was something about the roadside grass that was particularly appealing. Does it grow faster on the soil warmed by the dark asphalt roadway? I am sure the road is not plowed or salted in the winter, but perhaps there is more salt in this grass from early winter plowings. By the time I reached the parking lot at the bottom, I had counted twenty seven deer. Plus, I saw a thankfully shy moose, a scampering rabbit, and made a repeat sighting of a ragged porcupine, all at the side of the road. At the parking lot, a couple were intently gazing at the ridges across the reservoir. He lent me his binoculars and I was able to view three large elk grazing in a clearing on the ridge. I do not see elk very often -- they are very wary, so it was a fine finale to the cast of evening wildlife.
Written Tuesday, 6/21, the summer solstice
I bought a solo canoe off the internet and have taken it up to the Little Dell reservoir in both of the last two evenings, which is where I park my car to go riding up the canyon on the Pioneer Trail. The first time was on Sunday, 6/19, the fourth rainiest day in June since westerners have been keeping weather records, with over an inch of rain at my house in the desert and up to a foot of snow in the higher mountains, yet again. There is so much snow this year that even Snow Basin ski resort near Ogden reopened for weekend skiing and Snowbird is still going strong. We will have another extended season when one can ski the tram on the Fourth of July, recapitulating 1983 and ’84. The good thing about the surfeit of water is that it fills up the reservoirs so that the “bathtub ring” that mars the scenery later in the year during the drawdown is covered. Little Dell reservoir stores culinary water for Salt Lake City and we consume that aqua to keep our lawns green. I can almost imagine I am back in the Adirondacks where natural lake water levels remain fairly constant throughout the year.
It rained so much on Sunday that I had to cancel all my outdoor activities and even took two naps – unheard of for me – due to forced inactivity. Finally, about seven p.m., the sky started to clear for real. I had started out the door to put the canoe on the 4Runner once before only to be met by yet another shower. This time it held.
I had purchased a portable canoe cart earlier in the day, again through the vibrant internet marketplace, to carry my 45 pound boat between heft onto and off of my tall SUV. I am getting old too fast and the arthritis in my spine makes lifting much more difficult. Maybe it was those 200 pound rafts I used to carry by myself in West Virginia in my prime that hastened my punishment now. The cart was perfect, allowing me to wheel both the canoe and my gear between storage and auto, auto and launch, with ease.
Off to Little Dell, joining the 7x24 constant stream of traffic on nearby Interstate 80. I was there in a short 10 minutes. It was cold, but very beautiful with lots of clouds and interesting sun patterns on the vibrantly green hills and valleys; by now all the trees had fully leafed out and the grass was knee high and abundant. There was absolutely no one at the reservoir except the gate attendant and I gladly paid my $5 entrance fee for exclusive access. Only as I exited did I see one family on the shore within the park confines.
With almost no wind, the paddling was smooth and I started out toward the inlet. The water was up in the trees and I worried about the ashes along the edge that are fully inundated: can their roots survive the immersion? But I reassured myself the water has been higher than this in the past and they have survived before.
As I approach the log mass floating at the inlet, three Great Blue Herons startle to flight. I think to myself I should have been more careful to watch for wildlife, but no matter. I will see them again several times along the shore as it turns out. I have often startled Great Blues in the backwaters of the Adirondacks. This is a good omen.
At sharp contrast to the motor-overrun Sand Hollow Reservoir near Hurricane where I first tried out my newly purchased canoe, this cistern is quiet and filled with birds. Diving ducks I do not recognize, Canada geese, mallards, and other birds are abundant. Even the outhouse near where I launch has two rows of mud nests near the roofline housing swallows that swarm out as I approach. I even alarm a bird that looks suspiciously like a loon along the shore, but has different coloring than eastern loons. With the rapidly rising water, I fear for its nest, from which I suspect it is trying to lure me. I leave fully satisfied at sunset, if cold. On the way home I am compelled to stop yet again to gaze more at the gorgeous pink sunset reflecting off the clouds and the alpenglow illuminating the Wasatch Front.
The next day I make it a double header. Due to my many naps the previous day, I am up at five thirty and to work by seven. I am done by three fifteen and hasten home to load both my bike and my canoe in my faithful 4Runner. By five I am parked at the upper lot at Little Dell and riding up the still-barricaded road to Big Mountain pass for the first installment. The beauty of the ride has been marred by road crews who probably think they are improving the roadway. Instead, they have scraped away the vegetation the deer were eating just a few weeks ago, wantonly run over and destroyed most of the reflector markers, and even have managed to badly bevel the tarmac with the grader blade in a couple places. There is gravel all over the road, which is not biggie if you are on a mountain bike, but quite a hazard for the road bikers. It is time to change over to the mountain bike trail. The road is much less attractive than it was. Long gone are the neat little piles of elk scat that punctuated the roadway three weeks ago.
The reservoir, however, is just as lovely. I paddle for a couple hours, seeing only one Great Blue, but savor the accomplishment that I saw him well before he fled my approach. The fish are rising, bugs are out now that it has warmed up, and I have another wonderful time during my second event. I have the knack of this canoe and it tracks true and travels fast. I leave a bit earlier and am rewarded by a magnificent view of the orange sunset as I emerge into the city and note the northing of the descent point of the sun on this day before the solstice.
I am so lucky to live so close to such vibrant natural beauty while at the same time having all the opportunities of a large city. I give myself credit for capitalizing on my opportunities, but I am fortunate indeed.
Addendum 20110720
I was walking Susan’s Scottish Terrier Whisky last night and two and a half blocks down the street a little boy exclaimed “Is that Whisky?” “Yes indeed” I answered. I am used to Whisky being better known in the hood than I. It was dark and I could not see him clearly, not that I would have recognized him anyway, but he carefully informed me that he had played baseball. I replied “Oh great. Was that today?” “No,” he said, “it was last week,.. or maybe a couple weeks ago…” It took another thirty seconds of this stumbling dialog until I finally realized he was talking about the wiffleball game that he had played with all of us on that Sunday evening. I asked his name and he said “Jackson.” Then it all came together. He was one of the youngest players and everyone was very careful to be sure he had a fun experience, allowing him extra swings and forgiving running errors. He clearly had had a great time and was stoked to play again. Of course, I encouraged him and praised his playing skills. He proceeded to show me his Dad’s new car and bragged about how roomy it was inside and that it had a curtain that came down to shield him from the sun. Such a delightful encounter.